Siem Reap Reimagined
Siem Reap is redefining luxury, proving that responsible tourism and authentic experiences can transform a city, uplifting both visitors and locals alike.
Siem Reap is redefining luxury, proving that responsible tourism and authentic experiences can transform a city, uplifting both visitors and locals alike.
There’s a common thread of conversation in Siem Reap’s bars, restaurants, and hotels when you ask, “How’s business?” The answer is often, “a little slow still.” While tourism numbers have been steadily rising across Southeast Asia post-pandemic, Cambodia has been slower to see a full recovery. The country’s visitor numbers, while improving, are still lagging behind pre-pandemic figures by nearly 20%.
This slower pace comes despite the recent unveiling of the new Siem Reap-Angkor International Airport. Funded by China and located about an hour from the city (a considerable increase from the 10-minute journey from the old airport), it was built to accommodate the anticipated surge in long-haul international arrivals. However, direct flights, especially from places like the UK, remain elusive for now.
What makes Siem Reap even more compelling in this period of recovery is the strong sense of community that’s driving the local economy forward. Behind this push are local hoteliers, General Managers, and tour providers who are committed to ensuring the city’s growth is both sustainable and beneficial to Cambodians. These visionaries are focused on building a robust infrastructure that not only enhances the visitor experience but also supports local workers with better-paid jobs and increased security. Their efforts are helping to re-establish Siem Reap as a destination where culture, history, and responsible tourism coexist, offering travellers an authentic and meaningful experience while uplifting the community.
This dynamic atmosphere makes it an exciting time to visit Siem Reap, where you can witness firsthand the city’s revitalisation and feel the collective energy of a community dedicated to shaping a brighter future.
One of the people leading the charge is the enigmatic Managing Director of the multi-award-winning Jaya House Riverside Park, Christian de Boer. Under de Boer’s leadership, Jaya House has cultivated a reputation for responsible luxury, positioning itself as a steward of sustainable travel in Cambodia. His initiatives extend well beyond eco-friendly practices; the hotel actively supports local causes, from the ‘Refill Not Landfill’ campaign to combat plastic waste, to community projects with NGOs like the Green Gecko Center for Street Children. De Boer’s vision is clear: to leave a positive footprint, encouraging guests to support projects that impact local lives.
Amid a shifting tourism landscape in Southeast Asia, Jaya House stands out for its dedication to quality and social impact. “As travel rebounds, we’re increasingly aware of our role in minimising tourism’s ecological footprint,” says de Boer. “Our recognition as Cambodia’s top hotel for six years is a privilege, but our mission to support local welfare and sustainable practices is our driving force.”
Guests are invited to join these efforts by donating educational books for local children or contributing directly to the hotel’s NGO partnerships. Jaya House’s approach to sustainability is grounded in tangible actions, reminding visitors that luxury and responsibility can—and should—coexist.
Named one of the Top 25 Hotels in the World for six years running, this boutique haven sets a high bar for hospitality with an emphasis on sustainability. For the environmentally conscious traveller, Jaya House offers more than just a stay. As guests step into the property, they’re met with a celebration of Cambodia’s 1960s Modernism, from art deco-inspired facades to interiors accented with locally sourced wood and stone. The hotel’s 36 guest rooms each feature contemporary Khmer touches. While, the corridors are adorned with artwork by students from the Siem Reap Art School, fostering a cultural connection and offering a platform for emerging local talent.
Beyond design, Jaya House’s service is nothing short of exceptional. The concierge team goes to great lengths to tailor experiences, arranging private temple tours and hikes through Cambodia’s lush landscapes.
In addition to personalised service, Jaya House offers amenities that elevate the guest experience. Each room includes a complimentary tuk-tuk service for exploring Siem Reap’s vibrant streets, a daily-refilled minibar, and unlimited laundry services. There’s also a local mobile phone provided for easy communication—ideal for a seamless return after a day spent navigating temples or markets. The complimentary daily spa treatments, however, are perhaps the hotel’s most coveted offering. From invigorating Khmer massages to calming aromatherapy, the spa’s treatments provide the perfect antidote to a day of exploration.
Tokyo Design Gems
Tokyo is a paradox in motion. It’s a city where futuristic skyscrapers rise beside ancient temples and cutting-edge technology intertwines with centuries-old customs.
Tokyo is a paradox in motion. It’s a city where futuristic skyscrapers rise beside ancient temples and cutting-edge technology intertwines with centuries-old customs.
Wander down a side street, and you’ll pass a Zen shrine nestled between sleek glass towers, or stumble across a noodle shop that’s been serving the same recipe for generations, while just around the corner, robots whip up sushi. Tokyo’s magic lies in these harmonious contrasts—an ever-evolving metropolis that still honours its past. This unique blend of old and new extends to its hotels, where tradition meets contemporary design in unexpected ways.
From ryokan-inspired skyscrapers to quirky boutique stays, we’ve rounded up some of the city’s most remarkable places to stay. Whether you’re heading there for a weekend escape or to dive deep into Tokyo’s urban wonders, these hotels embody the spirit of the city: effortlessly cool, distinctly Tokyo, and full of surprises.
The opening of Janu Tokyo brings a fresh, youthful approach to luxury hospitality, offering an experience that’s all about connection, simplicity and purpose. Designed by the acclaimed architect Jean-Michel Gathy, this flagship hotel is crafted for a modern, globally-minded audience that seeks spaces for both relaxation and social interaction.
At the flagship hotel, the design focuses on calm, clean lines and earthy tones, creating a tranquil yet inviting environment. Signature details such as hand-applied Japanese sakan plaster and sliding doors inspired by Parisian windows bring a distinct touch of craftsmanship and cultural blend. Gathy’s careful balance of local tradition with contemporary design shines through, giving the hotel a character that’s both warm and minimal.
The rooms are thoughtfully organised with hidden storage and seamless features, keeping clutter at bay while allowing vibrant artwork to add a dash of energy to the serene palette. Janu Tokyo offers a refreshing take on privacy and community, providing guests with a space grounded in Japanese aesthetics but forward-looking in style and function.
The debut of the new Janu brand in Tokyo follows a stellar year for Gathy, with Dubai’s One&Only One Za’abeel and Cheval Blanc Seychelles also opening in 2024.
One@Tokyo is an architectural marvel by Japan’s design master, Kengo Kuma. Located in the Oshiage district, this minimalist haven reinterprets the rustic elegance of a traditional ryokan with a sleek, modern twist. Its industrial-rustic décor—think exposed concrete paired with warm wooden tones—creates an atmosphere that’s both calming and contemporary. Sublime views of the Tokyo skyline are a given, but the real charm is in the details: from its intimate tea corners to its serene library, One@Tokyo is as perfect for the jet-setting creative as it is for the minimalist businessman.
The wonderfully eclectic boutique Wired Hotel is nestled in the heart of Asakusa offering something for every budget—without skimping on style. The rooms are an ode to understated Japanese elegance: muted tones of grey and white alongside the use of wood are complemented by artistic flourishes that nod to traditional craftsmanship, while large windows bathe the space in natural light. Add to that a restaurant serving the finest Japanese cuisine, and Wired is more than just a hotel—it’s a cultural experience.
For those looking to mingle in style, there’s Trunk Hotel in Shibuya. A hotspot for the city’s young and restless, this boutique stay is all about social energy. With a buzzy bar, lush balconies and a BBQ terrace, it’s perfect for those who want their stay to be as vibrant as the neighbourhood. The rooms are a minimalist’s dream, bathed in natural light and adorned with contemporary pop art.
Hoshinoya Tokyo brings the ancient ryokan style into the 21st century without losing an ounce of its charm. Set in a sleek skyscraper, this luxury hotel offers all the tranquillity of a countryside retreat, with tatami-mat rooms, a private onsen and even a tea ceremony room. It’s a sanctuary of calm in the heart of the city, perfect for those who want to experience the grandeur of old Japan without leaving the buzz of Tokyo behind.
Retreat to Tranquility
Finding Serenity in the Sands: A Retreat at Zulal Wellness Resort by Chiva-Som.
Finding Serenity in the Sands: A Retreat at Zulal Wellness Resort by Chiva-Som
Nestled along the tranquil shores of the Arabian Gulf, Zulal Wellness Resort by Chiva-Som offers a serene, other-worldly escape, where nature and well-being harmoniously come together. Located just an hour north of Doha, this expansive 280,000 square metre retreat provides a peaceful respite from the bustling city. It’s not just another luxury resort; Zulal is pioneering wellness in the Middle East, drawing on the ancient wisdom of Traditional Arabic & Islamic Medicine (TAIM) to deliver a transformative experience for mind, body and soul.
From the moment we arrived, we were immersed in Zulal’s holistic philosophy. Greeted with the traditional Arabic tea ritual—a refreshing blend of green tea infused with fruit—we were then introduced to the House of Wisdom, the resort’s eclectic library filled with books on psychology, philosophy, art, and travel. The invitation to borrow a book reflected the resort’s commitment to both mental and physical well-being. We eagerly chose Matthew Syed’s Rebel Ideas, setting the tone for a journey of personal insight.
Zulal is thoughtfully divided into two distinct sections. Discovery is designed for families, while Serenity offers a tranquil, adults-only escape.
Our Serenity Junior Suite was a fine example of understated elegance. With natural tones and decor inspired by the waves of the nearby sea, the suite offered a spacious open-plan layout and a private outdoor plunge pool—our go-to spot between treatments. The suite embodied everything Zulal promises: serenity, simplicity and relaxation.
Our experience was tailored from the start with a personalised wellness consultation. Zulal offers over 400 treatments and activities, all designed to promote well-being. As our stay aligned with Ramadan, this was an opportunity for us to reset, with a focus on fitness, healthy eating, and a break from alcohol.
At the heart of Zulal’s philosophy TAIM is an approach that merges ancient healing practices with modern wellness techniques. Guided by doctors Brenda and Aashley, our schedule was carefully curated to balance fitness and relaxation. Personal trainer Wahid challenged us just beyond our comfort zone, while stretching sessions with Mahmoud provided much-needed relief for sore muscles. Each treatment and activity felt perfectly aligned with our goal of restoring both body and mind.
Zulal’s atmosphere invites guests to unplug from daily life. We were encouraged to leave our devices behind, and with the resort’s breathtaking natural surroundings, it was easy to embrace this digital detox. The resort’s signature white pyjamas and turquoise flip-flops, provided in every room, added to the sense of tranquillity as guests quietly moved through the property.
Spring’s mild temperatures, hovering in the low 30s, allowed for enjoyable outdoor activities. For those craving cooler air, the Arctic Room provided a refreshing blast of cold, offering a delightful contrast to the warm Qatari desert heat.
The spa’s variety of thermal experiences, from steam rooms to hydrotherapy pools, was one of the highlights of our stay. A particular favourite was the Himalayan Salt Room, where heated ceramic-tiled beds and purifying salt air made for a deeply relaxing experience.
Dining at Zulal was as much a part of the wellness journey as the treatments. The resort’s philosophy of balanced nutrition was evident in every meal, with portion-controlled dishes that were as delicious as they were health-conscious. Whether we dined at Al Sidr for Asian fusion or Malbu for Mediterranean seafood under the stars, each dish was artfully presented and full of flavour.
At Aizoon, the all-day dining restaurant, every meal felt special. Even the bread—spirulina, charcoal, and turmeric —was a delight. The dry policy at Zulal was liberating, and inventive mocktails ensured we never missed a traditional cocktail.
Zulal is a sanctuary for those seeking holistic wellness in a breathtaking natural setting. It’s not simply a retreat—it’s a transformative experience that lingers long after you leave. For those familiar with Thailand’s Chiva-Som resort, it’s worth noting that Zulal stands on its own with a distinctly unique offer. While Chiva-Som enjoys a beachfront location in Hua Hin with nearby amenities and much-celebrated Thai hospitality, Zulal’s desert-like oasis has a more private atmosphere offering a distinct appeal that is poised to become a top destination for wellness seekers in the region.
Art, Culture and the Quirky Charms of Pittsburgh
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania—known for its industrial roots, die-hard sports culture, and the iconic 446 bridges spanning its rivers—is quietly reinventing itself.
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania—known for its industrial roots, die-hard sports culture, and the iconic 446 bridges spanning its rivers—is quietly reinventing itself. Beyond the steel and stadiums, a lively creative scene is flourishing, blending pop art quirks, pickle festivals, and a unique, down-to-earth unpretentious charm.
Pittsburgh’s appeal is multifaceted. For those seeking natural beauty, the city offers stunning river views and green spaces interwoven through its hills and valleys. For foodies, Pittsburgh boasts a booming culinary scene, complete with trendy microbreweries and a proud love for all things pickled. And for the art lovers? This city is a treasure trove, with a host of museums and galleries that offer an inspiring mix of contemporary and classic works.
For a city its size, Pittsburgh delivers big when it comes to art and culture. The Clemente Museum is a good place to start. Dedicated to the life and legacy of baseball hero Roberto Clemente, this museum goes beyond sports to highlight Clemente’s humanitarian efforts and impact on the city. The museum is housed in a historic firehouse, complete with a basement winery and a warm, welcoming atmosphere. Tours are appointment-only, but well worth the visit for a unique slice of Pittsburgh’s sports and cultural heritage.
Next, head to The Carnegie, where you’ll find four cultural powerhouses under one roof: the Museum of Art, the Museum of Natural History, the Music Hall, and the Carnegie Library. The art museum features a stunning array of 20th-century pieces, while the natural history collection includes one of the best dinosaur exhibits in the country. For a deep dive into the city’s art scene, it’s an unbeatable spot to spend the day.
Of course, a Pittsburgh cultural tour isn’t complete without visiting The Andy Warhol Museum. The seven-story museum, located in a former warehouse, is the largest in North America dedicated to a single artist. Warhol, born and raised in the city, is celebrated through thousands of works, from his iconic Marilyn Monroe portraits to his lesser-known film projects and interactive installations. The museum’s temporary exhibitions also spotlight contemporary artists inspired by Warhol’s legacy, making it a must-see for art lovers.
The August Wilson African American Cultural Center is another essential stop. Honouring the Pulitzer Prize-winning playwright, this modern venue is a vibrant celebration of African American contributions to art, theatre and music. Named after the renowned Pittsburgh native, the centre features galleries and a 492-seat theatre positioning itself as a leading force in the city’s arts scene.
For those with a taste for the experimental, the Mattress Factory is a fascinating space. This former factory has been transformed into an immersive gallery that attracts artists from around the world. Known for its site-specific installations, the Mattress Factory offers a rotating selection of works that challenge and engage viewers. Whether it’s Yayoi Kusama’s mirrored ‘Infinite Dots’ room or something entirely new, the space is a playground for the imagination.
For a vibrant dash of colour, head over to Randyland, a psychedelic art space created by local artist Randy Gilson. Located in the Northside district, Randyland is a fantastical display of recycled objects painted in bold, joyful colours, transforming a modest corner of the city into a beloved local landmark.
Bicycle Heaven houses one of the world’s largest collections of vintage bicycles. Part museum, part repair shop, and part collector’s paradise, the space features over 4,000 unique bicycles, including the one made famous by Pee-wee Herman. It’s a nostalgic and whimsical nod to a simpler time and a reminder of the city’s love for the offbeat.
Pittsburgh’s food scene is as rich as its art. Start your day at The Speckled Egg with a decadent crab omelette or a classic avocado toast. For lunch, wander over to Walter’s Southern Kitchen in Lawrenceville for some seriously good barbecue—think brisket, pulled pork, and ribs accompanied by craft beers from local favourites like Brew Gentlemen and Grist House.
Rarely has a place embraced its quirks quite like Pittsburgh. The love for pickles is pervasive; each July, the city hosts Picklesburgh, a festival dedicated to this humble snack, featuring everything from pickle-flavoured cocktails to pickle-infused beer. There’s even a pickle whiskey—a surprising treat at local distilleries like Wigle Whiskey in the Strip District, where the spirit of the city’s whiskey-making heritage comes alive in a buzzing tasting room.
No trip to Pittsburgh is complete without sampling a legendary sandwich from Primanti Brothers. Created for truck drivers needing a one-handed meal, these towering sandwiches include fries and coleslaw stacked inside. Whether you love or hate it, trying a Primanti’s sandwich is a quintessential Pittsburgh experience.
If you’re looking to sample Pittsburgh’s growing craft beer scene, you’ll have plenty of options. Dancing Gnome Beer is a local favourite, celebrated for its IPAs and stouts. For a drink with a story, stop by Wigle Whiskey Distillery to taste a spirit crafted in the same city that sparked the Whiskey Rebellion over 200 years ago. And don’t forget to try the ‘Eau de Pickle’ whiskey—a surprisingly smooth homage to Pittsburgh’s pickle obsession.
Pittsburgh’s green spaces and waterways make it an ideal city for outdoor enthusiasts. Rent a bike and explore the Great Allegheny Passage, a path that connects Pittsburgh to Washington, D.C., via scenic trails and historic bridges. For a relaxing end to the day, make your way to Mount Washington and dine at Monterey Bay Fish Grotto. The restaurant serves fresh seafood with spectacular views of the city skyline. Afterwards, ride the Duquesne Incline, a 145-year-old funicular that offers panoramic views of Pittsburgh’s three rivers.
With its industrial past and creative present, Pittsburgh is an ideal city for travellers seeking a U.S. destination with a unique blend of art, culture, and natural beauty. It’s a place that doesn’t shout to be noticed but quietly dazzles those who venture to discover it. So pack your bags, book a flight, and get ready to explore this city of pop art and pickles—you may find yourself charmed by its unassuming magic.
Beyond the Alps
Basel’s slogan, ‘Swiss but different,’ captures the city’s unique charm. As Switzerland’s third-largest city, Basel offers nearly 40 museums to explore, blending the historic with the avant-garde.
Basel’s slogan, ‘Swiss but different,’ captures the city’s unique charm. As Switzerland’s third-largest city, Basel offers nearly 40 museums to explore, blending the historic with the avant-garde.
When an opportunity to visit Switzerland’s cultural heartland comes along, it’s impossible to refuse. This time, we set our sights on a city with a distinct identity: Basel. Trading ski slopes for sunny riversides, we’re here to embrace Swiss summers at their finest, with Basel’s rich art scene and vibrant urban life ready to captivate.
Switzerland may be famous for its winter wonderland reputation, but in summer, Basel transforms into a lively cultural playground. Locals spill onto the streets, lakesides, and riversides, hosting impromptu picnics and open-air concerts. Here, life moves at an engaging yet relaxed pace, perfect for exploring this city with a deeply woven artistic identity.
Basel’s slogan, ‘Swiss but different,’ captures the city’s unique charm. As Switzerland’s third-largest city, Basel offers nearly 40 museums to explore, blending the historic with the avant-garde. Start your journey with a stroll through the charming Altstadt, the city’s historic heart. Cobblestone streets lead to the red-sandstone Rathaus, a striking emblem of Basel’s commitment to heritage. Our walking guide, Jacqueline Frei, paints a vivid picture of the city’s evolution from a medieval centre to a modern art capital.
The Rhine River is central to Basel’s identity, and crossing it is best done on one of the city’s unique ferries, which operate sans motor, powered only by the current. As we glide across, we’re treated to panoramic views of both Kleinbasel and Grossbasel, two halves of a city that balance modernity with tradition. On the far bank, Basel Minster awaits, a 12th-century Gothic gem offering breathtaking views from its perch.
Basel’s museums are legendary, but if time allows only one, make it the Fondation Beyeler. Located in the lush suburb of Riehen, this Renzo Piano-designed marvel harmonises art, architecture and nature. The serene setting houses an enviable collection of works by the likes of Monet, Picasso, and Warhol, making it an oasis for art lovers. It is worth keeping an eye to coordinate your stay on the equally impressive rotating exhibitions that happen throughout the year.
For contemporary design aficionados, Vitra Design Museum is a must. Though technically in Germany, it’s a quick jaunt from Basel and a testament to modern innovation, featuring iconic furniture design and rotating exhibitions that celebrate creativity.
Dining in Basel is another cultural experience. We dove into the city’s culinary creativity at Alchemist, a hotspot known for its fusion of gastronomy and science. The theatrically presented 5-course Philosopher’s Stone surprise menu, including dry ice, was a great way to sample the menu’s offerings.
For a more casual option, Markthalle near the main station is a bustling food hub housed under a grand 1920s dome. Here, organic foods from around the globe sit alongside wine and craft beer stalls, perfect for groups craving variety. If you’d rather dine with a view, Cantina Don Camillo on Warteck’s rooftop offers a beautiful terrace with a mostly vegan menu that surprised us with hearty, bold flavours.
No visit to Basel is complete without a swim in the Rhine. Pack a Wickelfisch (the famous waterproof bag that floats alongside you), to keep valuables dry as you drift downstream. Join locals for this quintessential summer activity—steps and showers await along the river for an easy exit and a refreshing end to the day.
Marrakech Unveiled
Marrakech’s warm ochre hues, deep blue sky, and palm-fringed skyline always manage to cast a spell. Unlike the glitz of Dubai or the polished beauty of Oman, Marrakech exudes an effortless charm—unpretentious, raw, and welcoming.
Marrakech’s warm ochre hues, deep blue sky, and palm-fringed skyline always manage to cast a spell. Unlike the glitz of Dubai or the polished beauty of Oman, Marrakech exudes an effortless charm—unpretentious, raw, and welcoming. This authenticity, paired with the echo of the Imam’s call to prayer and the constant hum of daily life, has long made it a magnet for creatives.
In the 1960s, Marrakech became the ultimate indulgent retreat for icons like Yves Saint Laurent, Andy Warhol and Mick Jagger. With a lack of bars, the city’s elite gathered in opulent homes, designed by American interior designer Bill Willis. Known for his flamboyant, mosaic-filled creations, Willis was a character in his own right, dabbling in the era’s counterculture while crafting some of the most iconic interiors in the city. His legacy of vibrant, decadent design lives on in Marrakech’s modern architecture, inspiring a new generation of creatives.
Our visit this time centred on the IZZA Hotel, a welcome addition to the city’s luxury scene. Nestled within the Medina walls, this boutique property, opened in 2023 by Neon Adventures, is a sanctuary rather than a party hotspot.
Spanning seven riads, the hotel is an homage to the stars of Marrakech’s golden age with each of the fourteen rooms named after one of the celebrities who embraced Marrakesh’s hedonistic lifestyle in the ‘50s, ‘60s and ‘70s. From Jack Kerouac to Marianne Faithful, Grace Jones to Cecil Beaton, each boudoir is a nod to their personality – for example, the iconic Yves boasts a huge corner sofa, vintage desk, large bathtub completed with a Juliet balcony overlooking the magnificent pool; whilst the IZZA room, based on the original owner, showcases classic Berber design represented in an impressive staggered staircase leading to the mezzanine level and full-size kitchenette.
The multi-million-pound art collection at IZZA has been thoughtfully curated and sourced from a variety of partners from contemporary platforms like fellowship.xyz, a leading digital art gallery and the prominent NFT collector Studio137, as well as the private collection of IZZA’s founders. The collection spans genres—from Sebastião Salgado’s gritty photography to Texan AI artist Tyler Hobbs’ algorithmic creations. The hypnotic video work of the family collective of artists Yatreda from Ethiopia is showcased across multiple screens, adding a digital edge to the hotel’s art offering.
Art fills every corner of IZZA, even the bathrooms and gym feature captivating pieces, ensuring that creativity is omnipresent. The Bill Willis Bar, a tribute to the designer’s legacy, is filled with personal memorabilia, offering a nostalgic nod to his colourful life. The hotel’s ‘House of Friends’ atmosphere is a true reflection of Marrakech’s artistic history, blending luxury with deep cultural connections.
IZZA – Rates start from €200 (approx. £180) to €840 (approx. £720) per room per night, including breakfast, airport transfer, and a 45-minute massage in the hotel’s spa and hammam.
Text: Sara Darling
Images: Felix Speller
Cultural Adventures in Australia
Anna Dakin is sitting behind the steering wheel of her Troopy and hands over her phone, Spotify queued up, and says, “Choose a soundtrack.”
Anna Dakin is sitting behind the steering wheel of her Troopy and hands over her phone, Spotify queued up, and says, “Choose a soundtrack.” Riding shotgun, I scroll through the options and land on a playlist called “Favourite Driving Tunes.” It feels fitting as we’re about to embark on an epic road trip through Australia’s Northern Territory.
We’re setting off on an incredible journey with our award-winning tour guide. Over the next five days, we’ll experience a series of unforgettable moments that include breathtaking drone displays that tell ancient stories to the backdrop of magnificent Uluru, to a spine-tingling walk along a canyon’s edge, the journey promises to be full of surprises - an adventure that will offer a lifetime of memories.
We’re covering 1,250 kilometres, including 200 kilometres of bumpy, red dirt track, across some of the most stunning and ancient landscapes on Earth. The Northern Territory may be one of the country’s most remote regions, but it’s also home to world-famous attractions like Uluru and Kings Canyon, both of which are on our route.
With the vast Red Centre stretching out before us—its name a nod to the iron-rich, rust-coloured soil—we’re putting our trust in one woman to guide us safely through this adventure. In her trusty customised Troopy (a 4WD with sideways-facing bench seats in the back) Anna guides guests on her bespoke ‘Art Tours of Australia’ choosing routes that take in spectacular landscapes, Indigenous culture and, of course, art.
As a Royal College of Art alumna, Anna’s creative journey took an unexpected turn when she embarked on a 232km trek through the West MacDonnell Ranges, known as the Larapinta Trail. Carrying her art supplies in her backpack, she discovered the profound impact of creating art in the wild, remote landscapes of Central Australia. “I tried to communicate what that felt like in my paintings back in London,” Anna reflects, “but the experience was bigger than what I could capture on canvas.”
Since moving from the UK to Alice Springs, Anna has been guiding tours in Central Australia since 2018, earning several awards along the way. Her striking appearance—an impressive animal skull tattoo on one leg and a 6ft frame—along with her effortless skill at rolling out heavy cumbersome swags (comfortable outdoor sleeping bags), preparing the tastiest of campfire snacks, and sharing her deep knowledge of nature and Aboriginal culture, make her an unforgettable guide and the ultimate girl scout.
“When I first hiked the Larapinta Trail, I had no understanding of Indigenous culture in Central Australia,” she admits. “I thought it was all ancient history. But I could feel that something was alive in this landscape—a kind of spirit to the country, even if I didn’t know what it was.” Since relocating to the region and learning about Aboriginal Culture, Anna now understands the aliveness she felt.
”There are songlines and storylines that crisscross the entire country—stories of ancestors whose actions shaped the landscape. Those ancestors remain embedded in the country, existing in a spiritual layer that intertwines with the physical world.”
Anna’s tours are carefully curated to offer guests a perfect itinerary, blending adventure with comfort. Beyond the unforgettable experience of painting the sky by moonlight and sleeping under the stars in a swag beside the ancient Finke River—the oldest river system in the world—her tours include stays at luxurious resorts. These accommodations seamlessly blend the stunning natural landscapes with contemporary design, offering the perfect balance between wilderness exploration and relaxation.
An evening view of Uluru and Kata Tjuta with a difference
As the sun sets, over one thousand drones, accompanied by lasers and projections, light up the desert sky in a stunning, modern interpretation of the ancient Mala story—an integral part of Anangu culture. The Wintjiri Wiru show, meaning “beautiful view out to the horizon” in the local Pitjantjatjara language, offers a breathtaking cultural storytelling experience in an open-air desert theatre.
Perched atop a sand dune, guests are welcomed with cocktails and a gourmet dinner hamper as they take in the spectacular views of Uluru and Kata Tjuta. As night falls, the show begins, blending cutting-edge technology with traditional storytelling to create an unforgettable evening under the stars.
Ormiston Gorge for camping under the stars
Ormiston Gorge is a perfect destination for nature lovers, offering a refreshing swim amidst dramatic red cliffs and breathtaking landscapes. The gorge boasts a near-permanent waterhole, providing an inviting spot to cool off in the heart of the West MacDonnell Ranges. The ancient Finke River flows through the range, and it’s also where Anna (pictured above) hosts her unique ‘Painting by Starlight’ overnight camping experiences, adding a creative touch to the natural beauty of the area.
Light-Towers at Discovery Resorts – Kings Canyon
Visiting artist Bruce Munro’s ‘Light Towers’ is an immersive experience, blending the magic of light, sound and landscape. The installation features 69 two-metre-tall towers of light that shift in colour, synchronised to a celestial soundscape by Orlando Gough. Guests are invited to wander through the maze of glowing towers, taking in the mesmerising interplay of light and sound. At Lurijta Lookout, you’ll enjoy cocktails and canapés as the sun sets, and the Light Towers begin to reveal their full brilliance in the heart of the desert.
A morning Segway tour of Uluru
Our tour coincided with the hottest day of the year, so any hesitation about getting on a Segway for the first time quickly disappeared and the idea of walking 10km around Australia’s most sacred site faded into the background. Taking a Segway tour around the entire base of Uluru provided a refreshing breeze in the morning heat. As a first-time rider, a brief 5-minute lesson on the practice track gave me all the confidence I needed for the journey.The sacred land—now co-managed by the local Anangu people and Parks Australia—is carefully preserved. Along the tour, signs remind visitors to keep a respectful distance and request that no photos be taken in certain areas, due to the deep cultural significance of the site. These guidelines honour the complex traditional beliefs and customs associated with Uluru.
Watarrka National Park for the Kings Canyon Rim Walk
Kings Canyon’s Rim Walk is a challenging trek for those who prefer feet firmly on the ground, but for those willing to tackle the steep initial incline (no ropes required, just sturdy boots, a head for heights, and plenty of water), an early morning start promises a rewarding three-hour hike. The canyon’s towering red cliffs rise 100 meters above lush forests of palms, ferns, and cycads, sheltered from the harsh desert. Located in Watarrka National Park, Kings Canyon is part of the George Gill Ranges and has been home to the Luritja people for over 20,000 years. The six-kilometre Rim Walk offers breathtaking views of this mighty chasm.
Alice Springs for cultural art centres
Central Australia is widely regarded as the birthplace of the contemporary Aboriginal art movement, with Alice Springs serving as a key cultural hub, rich in art centres and galleries. The town hosts one of the nation’s oldest annual Aboriginal art festivals, Desert Mob, which features a dynamic exhibition, symposium, and marketplace, celebrating the vibrant creativity of Indigenous artists from across the region.
Where to stay
Sails in the Desert – Ayers Rock Resort
Sails in the Desert is a tranquil oasis in Australia's Red Centre, seamlessly combining modern luxury with the rich cultural heritage of the Anangu people, capturing the essence and spirit of this iconic landscape. Located close to Uluru, the hotel offers a peaceful retreat where contemporary design meets the timeless beauty of the desert. Guests are invited to immerse themselves in a truly unforgettable cultural journey, creating meaningful connections through shared, once-in-a-lifetime experiences.
Adjacent to the resort, you’ll find stores and galleries showcasing vibrant, high-quality Aboriginal artwork. Visitors may even have the chance to meet one of the resident artists featured at the Gallery of Central Australia, gaining unique insights into their craft and stories. The dedicated team at Sails can also arrange a range of enriching cultural activities, from bush food experiences and stargazing under the expansive Northern Territory skies to hands-on art workshops.
Discovery @ Kings Canyon Resort
Discovery Kings Canyon's Deluxe Cabin offers an inviting retreat in the heart of the Red Centre. Wake up to the calls of the crested bellbird and enjoy elegantly designed space that blend seamlessly with the rugged Northern Territory landscape. Each cabin features comfortable beds, premium linens, modern amenities, and a private ensuite, ensuring a relaxing stay.
The outdoor deck provides a perfect spot to sit under the stars, combining adventure with comfort. As the day winds down, the freestanding bath offer the ultimate way to unwind after exploring the breathtaking Rim Walk, surrounded by the beauty of the desert.
The Spirit of Finnish Modernism
The father of Finnish Modernism, architect Alvar Aalto, left an indelible mark on the landscape of his homeland with over 400 architectural projects scattered across Finland.
The father of Finnish Modernism, architect Alvar Aalto, left an indelible mark on the landscape of his homeland with over 400 architectural projects scattered across Finland. A journey through the south of the country reveals a series of his most iconic works, each blending form and function in ways that still feel visionary today.
Aalto was a design radical, constantly reinventing his Modernist style. His approach evolved to include experiments with materials, textures, and architectural forms, eventually embracing organic shapes inspired by Finland’s rugged landscapes. Aalto firmly believed that by harmonising with nature, one could cultivate a more humane society.
Functionalism, softened by humanist touches, defines Aalto’s style. His liberal use of natural materials—particularly wood—created a warmth and tactility that softened the often rigid lines of Modernism. In architecture, furniture, and glass design, he pioneered an approach that integrated the Finnish landscape, making his works sensuous and enduringly liveable.
Though Finnish architecture has evolved, Aalto’s legacy endures. His influence is evident across the country, where a deep connection to nature remains a cornerstone of design.
Jyväskylä: Aalto’s Hometown
Aalto’s hometown of Jyväskylä, 280km north of Helsinki, boasts more Aalto-designed buildings than any other city in the world. Here, one can trace his journey from classicism to functionalism, particularly on the University of Jyväskylä campus and at Säynätsalo Town Hall, where red-brick construction became a signature feature.
Aalto’s summer retreat, the Experimental House on Muraatsalo Island, offers a striking example of his penchant for innovation. Here, he played with different textures and materials, juxtaposing brick, stone, and ceramic against the stark whitewashed walls. This “building without foundations” was perched directly atop the natural rock, integrating it seamlessly with the landscape and featuring early experiments in solar heating—a concept well ahead of its time.
Nearby, the Alvar Aalto Museum reflects Aalto’s signature touch with a white-tiled façade that dances with light. Inside, skylights and a minimal design language create a space dedicated to Aalto’s architectural vision and interior design hosting exhibitions, workshops, and forums that keep Finnish Modernism at the cutting edge.
Where to stay: The family-run Boutique Hotel Yöpuu is the ideal retreat, offering individually designed rooms, some dedicated to Aalto himself. Enjoy the restaurant Pöllöwaari’s ‘Taste of Finland’ menu for a flavour of local cuisine.
Seinäjoki: Aalto’s Civic Vision
The small city of Seinäjoki houses a collection of Aalto’s civic buildings, all within a compact, walkable area that draws architecture enthusiasts from around the globe. Aalto’s winning design for the city’s cultural and administrative centre, known as the Aalto Centre, is based on the concept of a forum influenced by Italian piazzas, blending monumental architecture with approachable public spaces.
At the heart of this district, the Civic Square is bordered by the Town Hall, Library, and Seinäjoki Theatre. Paved with granite and cobblestone, this space was designed for gatherings, fostering social interaction in a setting that promotes dialogue and a “new renaissance” of civic life. The library also houses the world’s largest collection of Aalto’s glasswork, designed by his wife, Aino Aalto, who co-founded the legendary design company Artek.
Where to stay: Hotel Alma offers the quintessential Finnish experience, including rooms with in-suite saunas in the new tower. Located next to the train station, Hotel Alma’s history dates back to 1909, making it both convenient and charming. While in Seinäjoki, a visit to the Lapuan Kankurit shop is a must for its unique blend of Nordic and Japanese-inspired design.
Travel Essentials
Finnair offers daily flights from London to Helsinki, with fares starting at £180 in Economy Class and £547 in Business Class. For more information and reservations, visit finnair.com.
Paris is Burning
Fashion and contemporary art set the French capital on fire
Fashion and contemporary art set the French capital on fire
Art Basel is arguably the most prominent brand of international contemporary art fair in the world, with its editions in Switzerland, Miami and Hong Kong well established on the artworld calendar. In 2022 Art Basel added Paris to the list, causing great excitement in a city that has emerged from Covid (and from Brexit) with a spring in its step when it comes to the international art markets. Indeed, Paris is rapidly becoming one of the most dynamic cities in Europe for contemporary art today.
Add to the mix Paris’s status as a world capital of fashion and haute couture, and that’s when things really start hotting up. September 2024 brought a strong edition of Paris Fashion Week, celebrating its fiftieth year. When Art Basel Paris opened shortly after in October, it was the major fashion houses that were causing a splash through their sponsorships and collaborations. Louis Vuitton is creating the brand’s first hotel (currently wittily disguised in the unmistakeable shape of an LV trunk during the renovation), towering over the Champs Élysées next to their flagship store, while the Louis Vuitton Foundation nearby in the Bois de Boulogne, designed by Frank Gehry, has been staging world-class art exhibitions for a decade. For Art Basel Paris, as well as a spectacular giant lamp installation in the shape of a fish, designed by Gehry, hanging beneath the impressive glass roof of the refurbished Grand Palais, LV also presented the Louis Vuitton by Frank Gehry bag collection along with a display of Gehry’s collaborations with the brand spanning two decades.
A beautiful fragrance was emanating from nearby, where Parisian perfumier and art fair Host Partner, Guerlain was unveiling its annual artist collaboration, this year with South Korean painter Lee Ufan. This resulted in a new edition of the porcelain Flacon Quadrilobé crafted by Maison Bernardaud, containing an exclusive floral fragrance, Souvenir d’Orchidée, designed by the artist and Delphine Jelk, creative director of Guerlain fragrances. Just up the road from the fair, on the Avenue Montaigne in the heart of Paris’s fashion district, le Triangle d’Or (the golden triangle), Burberry was hosting an evening with London-based mixed-media artist Alvaro Barrington, exploring the intersections of art, fashion and culture. Art galleries have recently been opening branches around the triangle itself, including Hauser & Wirth, on Rue François 1er, and Stuart Shave Modern Art on the Place de l’Alma. While Fused was visiting the district, we stopped by for a glass of Champagne at Hauser & Wirth where US director Christopher Canizares was taking guests around American artist Rashid Johnson’s Anima – an exquisite exhibition of paintings, sculpture and film.
Miu Miu, Public Program Official Partner for Art Basel Paris, organised an incredible, immersive, site-specific project at the Palais d’Iéna conceived by London-based Polish artist Goshka Macuga with curator Elvira Dyangani Ose, director of MACBA, Barcelona. The project, entitled Tales & Tellers, involved a cast of curious female characters representing films by women directors commissioned by Miu Miu since 2011, among other intriguing things. Visitors could walk among the actors – a performance and fashion show par excellence. Just across the road, the Shangri-La was hosting a party following the opening of the Hong Kong Tourism Board’s popular Hong-Kong-style canteen ‘Cha Chaan Teng’ at the heart of the fair and featuring a light installation by Hong-Kong rising art star Trevor Yeung. The canteen, the first project as part of HKTB’s three-year global partnership with the fair, put the flavours of Hong Kong cuisine in visitors’ mouths and minds ahead of the next Hong Kong edition of Art Basel scheduled for 28–30 March 2025. See you there?
Words: Matt Price
Our top hotel picks in Siem Reap
When it comes to design, style, and service, Siem Reap stands among the world’s top cities. Don’t settle for a quick temple tour; instead, immerse yourself in the local atmosphere and enjoy an extended stay that will leave you feeling truly connected to the city.
When it comes to design, style, and service, Siem Reap stands among the world’s top cities. Don’t settle for a quick temple tour; instead, immerse yourself in the local atmosphere and enjoy an extended stay that will leave you feeling truly connected to the city.
Anantara Angkor Resort
The architecture of Anantara Angkor is a tribute to the majesty of traditional Khmer design. Visitors are welcomed by intricate carvings, expansive courtyards, and tranquil water features that evoke a deep sense of serenity with suites hidden behind landscaping. On arrival, guests are greeted with a traditional Khmer foot massage from the spa staff—a relaxing gesture after a long trip.
Viroth’s Hotel
Set in Siem Reap’s vibrant Wat Bo area, Viroth’s Hotel is a go-to for design lovers. Known for its mid-century modern style, the hotel seamlessly blends contemporary elegance with locally crafted accessories and collectables. Guests can enjoy beautifully curated interiors and a unique touch—immaculate vintage cars available for tours around the city.
Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor
Since its inception in 1932, the Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor has been more than just a rest stop for archaeologists and adventurers exploring the ancient wonders of Angkor Wat. It’s a living testament to history, where the lush green grounds, royal gardens, and marble staircases whisper tales of a bygone era.
FCC Angkor by Avani
FCC Angkor blends historic charm with modern sensibilities. The lobby, adorned with artefacts and photographs that tell the story of the former French colonial administration, exudes a sense of timeless elegance and hints to the adventurous explorers of the past. Surrounded by centuries-old sacred trees and lush tropical greenery, the resort has 80 modern rooms, each infused with thoughtful Khmer details—artisanal textiles, handwoven rattan baskets, and bespoke furnishings—that seamlessly blend tradition with modern luxury.
Elegance on Track
Nestled in the heart of Thailand’s Khao Yai National Park, the Intercontinental Khao Yai Resort offers a luxurious and nature-centric retreat, blending opulence with natural beauty.
Nestled in the heart of Thailand’s Khao Yai National Park, the Intercontinental Khao Yai Resort offers a luxurious and nature-centric retreat, blending opulence with natural beauty.
As part of the IHG group, this stunning property was designed by renowned architect Bill Bensley. Bensley has expertly infused the resort with exquisite architecture and interior design that pays homage to the golden age of train travel while harmoniously integrating with the lush surroundings.
The resort’s accommodations epitomise comfort and eco-consciousness, featuring modern luxury with nostalgic travel motifs. Guests can choose from a wide range of rooms and private villas, including upcycled train carriages that have been transformed into luxury suites, each crafted to showcase breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains, forests, and lakes.
Dining at the Intercontinental Khao Yai Resort is a culinary journey that caters to diverse palates. Guests can start their day at Somying’s Kitchen, a retro-chic diner featuring vibrant Formica surfaces and cool Tiffany-blue pleather seating. Highlighting the bold flavours of northeastern Thailand, dishes like fiery papaya salad, spicy curries, and the signature ‘Yang Sua’ Grilled Marinated Wagyu with tamarind sauce make for difficult choices during ordering.
For a more formal dining experience, the French brasserie Poirot, housed in a converted railway carriage across Swan Lake (yes, with real Swans), offers a refined menu reminiscent of first-class train travel. Next door, the jazz-era-inspired Papillon Bar is the perfect spot to unwind with timeless cocktails like Martinis and Negronis.
From misty mountain views and personalised park tours to starlit evenings, it’s the ideal blend of nostalgic charm, nature immersion and modern indulgence.
Rates start from £230 per night, including breakfast, making this a must-visit destination for those seeking a peaceful yet luxurious escape.
The Rest of the Best of Bensley
Across Southeast Asia and beyond, Bill Bensley-designed properties are our top choice for an unforgettable stay. Seamlessly integrated into their surroundings, each distinctive resort and hotel embodies luxury, indulgence, and a playful spirit.
Across Southeast Asia and beyond, Bill Bensley-designed properties are our top choice for an unforgettable stay. Seamlessly integrated into their surroundings, each distinctive resort and hotel embodies luxury, indulgence, and a playful spirit.
The Siam, Bangkok, Thailand
Masterfully blending Art Deco elegance with traditional Thai design, boutique-sized The Siam is nestled along the Chao Phraya River and offers an oasis of serenity in the bustling city.
Guests are treated to spacious, intricately designed suites and villas, many of which feature private pools and lush gardens. The attention to detail extends to the hotel’s expertly curated art and antiques collection.
JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay Resort & Spa, Vietnam
The university-inspired resort features whimsical, themed interiors and lush, expansive grounds where guests are invited to explore art exhibitions, attend creative workshops, and indulge in luxurious amenities. The resort’s playful nod to academia, combined with its elegant design and cultural focus, makes it a one-of-a-kind destination on Phu Quoc island.
Capella Ubud, Bali
For an opulent escape amidst Bali’s unspoiled rainforest, Capella Ubud’s 22 one-bedroom luxury tents and a two-bedroom lodge each feature a private pool, outdoor deck, and exquisite handcrafted decor. This retreat truly immerses guests in nature while providing lavish comfort, all under the multi-award-winning Capella brand, promising an unparalleled experience.
The Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle, Chiang Rai
Evoking the spirit of 19th-century explorers through vintage furniture, Thai textiles, and elegant teak furnishings the intimate 15 luxury tents make up this unique property in the heart of Thailand’s lush Chiang Rai jungle. Bensley’s attention to detail celebrates local artistry, while his commitment to sustainability ensures that the camp harmonises with the natural landscape.
Rosewood Luang Prabang, Laos
Bill was recently asked what destination inspires him and his answer was Luang Prabang, as it has the most beautiful village in the world. Just ten minutes from the city centre, Rosewood Luang Prabang offers a peaceful retreat on the edge of the forest and mountains. With 23 rooms, a swimming pool, a dining venue, and Sense, a Rosewood Spa offering traditional Lao therapies, the resort perfectly balances the excitement of the town with serene natural beauty.
The Slate, Phuket
One of Bensley’s first hotel designs, The Slate is a striking fusion of industrial design and luxury. With its bold aesthetic inspired by Phuket’s tin mining history, the resort features raw materials and dramatic interiors. Spacious suites and villas, many with private pools, seamlessly blend comfort with the avant-garde design he is so well known for.